Discovering Pokhara
Pokhara sits beside Phewa Lake in central Nepal, with the Annapurna range—Machhapuchhre (Fishtail), Annapurna South, and Hiunchuli—rising dramatically to the north. The reflection of Machhapuchhre in the still morning lake is one of Asia's most iconic views. The city is the gateway to the Annapurna trekking region and a destination in its own right, with paragliding, boating, and mountain biking. The World Peace Pagoda, built by Japanese Buddhists on a hilltop south of the lake, offers panoramic views of the city, the lake, and the snow-capped peaks.
Pokhara is considerably more relaxed than Kathmandu. The Lakeside district stretches along the eastern shore of Phewa Lake, with a pedestrian zone lined with bakeries, trekking gear shops, and restaurants serving both Nepali and international cuisine. The old town area, north of the main road, has traditional Newari architecture and a fruit market that is far less touristy than Lakeside. Davis Falls, a waterfall that disappears into an underground tunnel, and the Gupteshwor Cave opposite it are popular day trips. The Bindhyabasini Temple, on a hill in the city center, is a Hindu shrine with views of the mountains.
Plan three to four days. Day one: Phewa Lake boating, the World Peace Pagoda, and Lakeside. Day two: Sarangkot for sunrise paragliding, then Davis Falls and Gupteshwor Cave. Day three: a day hike to the Australian Camp or the Tibetan refugee camp. Day four: rent a mountain bike and ride to Begnas Lake, a quieter alternative to Phewa.
Best Time to Go
October to November and March to May are the best seasons, with clear mountain views and pleasant temperatures (15 to 28 degrees). October and November are peak trekking season, so the city fills with trekkers preparing for or returning from the Annapurna trails. The Dashain and Tihar festivals in October and November bring celebrations to the city.
December to February is cold (5 to 18 degrees) with fog that can obscure mountain views in the mornings. June to September is the monsoon, with heavy rain and limited visibility. However, the waterfalls are at their most powerful and the countryside is vividly green. Hotel prices drop by 40 to 60 percent during the monsoon.
Getting There and Around
Pokhara Airport (PKR) receives flights from Kathmandu (25 minutes, USD 100 to 130). The flights offer spectacular mountain views on clear days. Tourist buses from Kathmandu take 7 to 8 hours (USD 10 to 15) along a winding mountain road. A private car from Kathmandu costs USD 80 to 120. The road is being upgraded but remains slow due to mountain terrain.
Within Pokhara, taxis charge NPR 300 to 500 for trips between Lakeside and the airport or bus station. Tuk-tuks cost NPR 50 to 100 for short hops. Bicycles rent for NPR 200 to 300 per day. Boats on Phewa Lake cost NPR 300 to 500 per hour. The World Peace Pagoda is reached by a 1-hour hike from the southern shore of the lake or a 30-minute boat ride plus a 45-minute climb.
Where to Stay
Lakeside is the main tourist area, with hotels ranging from the Hotel Annapurna (NPR 5,000 to 10,000 per night) to budget guesthouses like the Purple Penguin (NPR 500 to 1,000). The Lakeside strip has the best restaurants and cafes. The area near Damside, at the southern end of the lake, is quieter with similar pricing.
The old town area has guesthouses like the Hotel Middle Path (NPR 2,000 to 4,000) and a more authentic Nepali atmosphere. For luxury, the Fulbari Resort (USD 150 to 300) and the Temple Tree Resort (USD 100 to 200) offer pool and spa facilities. Sarangkot, the hilltop village known for sunrise views, has basic guesthouses (NPR 800 to 1,500) for those who want to wake up above the clouds.
Must-See Attractions
Phewa Lake and Tal Barahi Temple
The second-largest lake in Nepal, Phewa Lake covers 5 square kilometers and reflects the Annapurna range on still mornings. The Tal Barahi Temple, a two-story pagoda on an island in the lake, is dedicated to the goddess Ajima. Boating from the Lakeside shore to the temple takes 30 minutes. The eastern shore of the lake offers the best mountain reflections at dawn.
Price: Boat NPR 300-500/hour | Hours: Boats 6 AM-6 PM
World Peace Pagoda
Built by Japanese Buddhist monks in 1973, this white stupa sits on a hilltop 350 meters above the southern shore of Phewa Lake. The pagoda contains four Buddha statues representing each direction and offers 360-degree views of the Annapurna range, the city, and the lake. The hike from the lake shore takes about 45 minutes through forest.
Price: Free | Hours: Daily 6 AM-6 PM
Sarangkot Sunrise and Paragliding
The hilltop village of Sarangkot, 1,600 meters above Pokhara, is the launch point for paragliding flights over the city and Phewa Lake. Sunrise from Sarangkot reveals the Annapurna range, Dhaulagiri, and Machhapuchhre in golden light. Tandem paragliding flights (30 to 60 minutes) cost USD 80 to 150 and are one of the best value adventure activities in Asia.
Price: Paragliding USD 80-150; sunrise free | Hours: Flights 6 AM-10 AM (weather permitting)
Davis Falls and Gupteshwor Cave
Davis Falls (Patale Chhango) is a waterfall where the Pardi Khola river plunges into a narrow gorge and disappears underground. Opposite the falls, Gupteshwor Cave extends 3 kilometers into the rock, with a passage leading behind the waterfall itself. The cave contains stalactites and a shrine to Shiva.
Price: Davis Falls NPR 30; Cave NPR 100 | Hours: Daily 7 AM-6 PM
Bindhyabasini Temple
A white-domed Hindu temple on a hill in the center of Pokhara, dedicated to the goddess Bhagwati. The temple is one of the oldest in Pokhara and is particularly active during the Dashain festival. The hilltop location offers views of the city and, on clear days, Machhapuchhre.
Price: Free | Hours: Daily 5 AM-8 PM
Food and Drink
Dal bhat (lentil soup, rice, vegetables) — Third Pole Restaurant, Lakeside. NPR 300-500.
Newari feast (choila, bara, chatamari) — Newari Kitchen, Lakeside. NPR 400-700.
Apple pie and cappuccino — Busy Bee Cafe, Lakeside. NPR 200-400.
Mo:mo (Tibetan dumplings) — Mo:mo Star, Lakeside. NPR 200-350.
Practical Tips
• The sunrise from Sarangkot is one of the best in Nepal—hire a taxi at 4:30 AM to arrive in time.
• Paragliding is best in October and November when the thermals are strongest and views are clearest.
• Boating on Phewa Lake is cheapest in the afternoon—morning prices are higher due to demand.
• The road from Kathmandu is being upgraded; check current conditions as sections may be closed.
• ATMs in Lakeside are plentiful, but carry cash for smaller guesthouses and restaurants.
Traveler's Tip
Rent a kayak on Phewa Lake at 6 AM (NPR 300 per hour from the Lakeside shore). Paddle across the glass-still water toward the reflection of Machhapuchhre. The mountains turn pink and gold as the sun rises, and you will have the lake almost entirely to yourself.